Adriano Panaifo (right) paddles a narrow, tippy boat across a stream and walks for a few minutes to work in the small field where he grows yucca and plantains and pineapples. “Field” does not really describe this place, it’s more like an area in the forest where he plants fruits and vegetables between the trees, and grows what he can. He says he has three such one-hectare farms (about 7.3 acres all together), and he is struggling to manage them properly.
“My farms are not very well kept, I’m not working on them enough right now,” the 62-year-old farmer explains. He says his duty as a leader of his community “takes up a lot of time.”
He pulls down a branch suspending a bunch of plantains, raises his wiry arm, and cuts through it with his razor-sharp machete with one effortless stroke. His grandson hoists the plantains on his back and we retrace our steps, stopping briefly to send the other, smaller grandson up a cacao tree to toss down a few ripe pods.
Panaifo’s official duties keeping him from his farm are a pretty serious business. A foreign-owned company called Cacao del Peru Norte has acquired forest land nearby, and Panaifo says it has invaded areas claimed by people in Panaifo’s town, which is called Panguana, about an hour by fast boat from the city of Iquitos in northern Peru’s Loreto province. Knowing villagers here did not have proper land title, Panaifo says the company started building a road through their land, and he and others had to find attorneys to stop them.
Oxfam’s partner, the Peruvian Society for Environmental Law (known by its Spanish initials SPDA) is helping farmers in Panguana to file for legal title for their land, and to work out conflicts with the cacao company. José Luis Capella, a lawyer at SPDA says they are not getting much help from the regional government responsible for issuing the land titles, but they see a lot of activity to support the cacao plantation. He says Peru’s forests are protected by law and can’t be just cut down for a plantation. “The authorities should not be granting title to forest lands for agriculture,” he says.
Back in his wood-framed home, just a few steps from the Amazon River, Panaifo shows me a map indicating scores of 11-hectare (about 27 acres) parcels of land farmers in the town are claiming. He says each farmer can use part of the parcel to rotate their crops, and preserve the forest in other parts.
I’ve met a lot of people like Panaifo who are struggling to defend their land rights against powerful forces backed up by money and political influence not just here in Peru but also in Ghana, Cambodia, Guatemala, and El Salvador. I always try to ask: Why are you so committed, and what it is about this place that makes you keep fighting?
On this warm day, Panaifo describes the beauty of the undisturbed forest land when he was growing up, and hunting with his father when he was a young boy, stalking animals like sajino, a wild boar, in the dark of night until they could illuminate their eyes with a flashlight and fire their weapons. They drank water straight from streams, and pulled fish from the river, and had land to farm rented from a landlord they respected.
Despite land reforms and other changes over the years, it’s hard to argue that things have improved here. “We’re not hunting anymore, the animals are gone,” he says. Where they used to drink water from nearby streams, he says that now “in the plantation areas the streams are all turbid and not safe to drink.”
But despite everything, Panaifo and his neighbors want to save their community and as much of the forest as they can. His reasons are clear: “We don’t want to suddenly be an island in the middle of a plantation,” he explains. “I love this place because I was born here. I learned to work the land with my parents. This is my life.”